Hemp has become one of the most in-demand materials across cannabis-inspired apparel—showing up in hoodies, intimates, accessories, and sustainable streetwear. Yet the ability to turn hemp into textiles depends heavily on a shifting mix of U.S. and global regulations that shape everything from farming to export approvals.
In the United States, the 2018 Farm Bill is the cornerstone. It legalized hemp nationwide so long as the crop stays at or below 0.3% THC by dry weight. The USDA now oversees a national production program, while individual states and tribal governments run their own licensed systems. For textile brands, this means hemp fiber must originate from compliant growers who follow strict sampling, testing, and reporting rules. Proof of legal origin—THC test results, grower licenses, and chain-of-custody records—has become standard risk management for apparel companies sourcing domestic fiber.
There’s also growing federal scrutiny. While recent legislative efforts focus on eliminating intoxicating hemp-derived cannabinoids, apparel companies operating lifestyle brands with CBD product lines may need to tighten internal compliance and marketing separation. Even though fabrics aren’t the target, increased oversight of the hemp sector trickles down to every business using the plant.
Internationally, the regulatory landscape is even more fragmented.The European Union raised its industrial hemp THC threshold from 0.2% to 0.3%, aligning with the U.S. and Canada and broadening opportunities for farmers to grow higher-yield fiber varieties. EU cultivation rules still require certified seed from an approved list, which gives textile buyers consistent quality but limits genetics. Other markets, including China, Australia, and select Asian regions, enforce their own THC thresholds ranging from 0.2% to 1%. Without global standardization, apparel brands blending fiber from multiple regions must juggle varied paperwork, testing methods, and customs requirements.
China—one of the world’s largest producers of hemp textiles—adds another layer: cultivation and processing are governed by provincial licensing in major hemp regions such as Yunnan and Heilongjiang. Export scrutiny has increased in recent years, and buyers must confirm that fiber, yarn, or fabric mills hold the proper regional approvals. Inconsistent enforcement between provinces means textile companies must vet partners carefully to avoid shipment delays or compliance issues.
Beyond cannabis laws, hemp textiles must also meet mainstream chemical and sustainability standards. Certifications like OEKO-TEX and GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) have become increasingly important for cannabis apparel brands marketing hemp as a cleaner, more environmentally responsible option. These programs look at chemical inputs, wastewater handling, worker protections, and full supply-chain traceability—elements unrelated to THC levels but crucial for retailers and eco-conscious customers. As fashion faces rising pressure to eliminate PFAS, heavy metals, formaldehyde, and high-impact dyes, certified hemp textiles offer a competitive advantage.
For cannabis apparel brands, these regulations directly influence design, sourcing, and global distribution. Companies must ensure mills can provide THC documentation for fiber, demonstrate legal sourcing for international customs, and support sustainability claims with recognized third-party certifications rather than vague internal definitions. Compliance becomes part of the brand story, especially as consumers demand transparent sourcing and as governments tighten controls on hemp production.
The opportunity is significant: brands that build traceable, compliant supply chains can access more markets, win retailer trust, and stand out from competitors using uncertified or ambiguously sourced fiber. In a category where sustainability and authenticity matter, understanding the rules behind hemp fabric is key to keeping collections moving across borders—and keeping cannabis clothing credible worldwide.